Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/gumptiontrap/
You’re bored, so you should paint your AR. I really don’t have anything better to say. This is America, so you should have an AR. You can paint it, so you should paint it.
If you’re one of those people who likes to watch videos, you should watch this sex icon showing you how to paint a rifle before looking at my pictures and reading my DIY:
There. You’ve seen a rifle getting painted by an attractive man in a flannel.
I do it a little bit differently. (I don’t wear a flannel.)
In my opinion, the rifle looks worse–and definitely feels worse in your hands–when the plastic bits are painted. I disassembled mine for painting.
But before I get to the photos, let’s make a list of supplies.
- Safety glasses
- Masking tape
- Brake parts cleaner
- Paint (Rustoleum is wayyyy better than Krylon)
- Razor blades (these are, by far, the best razor blades I’ve used)
- P100 respirator (HAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAA)
- Some scrap cardboard and a drop cloth
- Something to make a pattern (I used a piece of mesh from a potato bag)
How to paint your rifle.
First, take your gun apart. (You own an AR, I assume you know how to take it apart.)
Mask off the areas where you don’t want to get any paint, and lay out your cardboard or drop cloth. (You’ll notice I masked off the gas tube. This is mainly because I didn’t want to smell burning paint later. And yes, I know. You’re right. The gas block doesn’t smell great either. We’ll see how the paint holds up moving forward.)
First, spray the whole rifle down with brake parts cleaner and wipe with a low lint cloth. (I like an old t shirt for this.) You can do this a few times. Brake parts cleaner removes any oils on the gun, making it more likely for the paint to adhere. Once you’re finished, let it sit for five minutes or so to make sure the cleaner has completely dried. Now you can start painting.
I used an old (15rd, lol) magazine as a grip for the gun, so I could pick it up and move it without touching the paint. This also stops paint from going into the lower receiver.
I do very light coats, from multiple angles, five minutes apart. Looking at the rifle sitting there on the cardboard as a clock, I spray from 6, then 12, then an even, light touch up coat–lightly spraying missed areas–from 3, then 9. I did this on all parts 4 times before moving to the darker color.
4 coats down, now comes the brown.
This looks like it was one spray over each area, but it’s actually three light coats.
Now the pattern. This part is relatively straightforward. You put the mesh down, and spray either light over dark or dark over light. A single, steady spray. One coat.
Let it all dry for 24-48 hours. You want it cured before you start reassembly. If you really want to make sure it’s cured, it wouldn’t hurt at all to leave it for a week.
(NOTE: You’ll notice that I didn’t flip anything over in the photos. Obviously, I painted both sides of the rifle. When painting, wait 20 minutes or so before touching or moving the rifle. I did one side completely, then flipped and did the other.)
Now, for dramatic effect–even though you saw the finished rifle up top–let’s see some before photos.
And the final product.
So there it is. You’re ready to go, and literally no one will be able to see you. If you care at all about America, you’ll paint your rifle as well.
At the moment, it actually costs me money to keep this site up. Some of the product links you see are Amazon affiliate links. I’ve gone out of my way to make sure to only link to products that I myself use, that I would use, or that fit a specific application and are best purchased from Amazon. You’ll notice as well that I have some product links to other sites. These are instances where there was no acceptable product on Amazon, or Amazon charged significantly more. I only make money from the Amazon links.
So if you like what you’ve seen on my site, or you’ve felt that it helped you and you’d like to help me keep the site up, please consider using the Amazon links. And also consider throwing some satoshis my way: 3L74fDSVd1YDzyp18p9VJPPa6Kdw47xVKk